What's in Your Sniffsonium?

Matt's illustration of the Sniffsonium. I sure do love having an in-house artist.

The "Sniffsonium" is a term coined by hubby Matt and we all have one. It is that internal sanctum where we store our memories and emotions related to certain smells and scents that we've experienced in our lives, proabably from day one. Matt also calls it a Smellatorium, however that sounds like the place where not-so-pleasurable smells go to be cremated and entombed. Although, that could serve a purpose too.

There's nothing like the sense of smell to send our memory reeling back years and years to a specific moment in time. A familiar scent can evoke the person, the place and the feelings associated with that one scent. And it happens in a split-second. With a direct link from our olfactory receptors ("vacuum" as depicted above) to the limbic system, our reactions to smells occur in an instant. And as the limbic system is the part of the brain that deals with emotions, memories are conjured like a genie out of a bottle, literally in the case of perfume.

The sense of smell is so important to me and it's one of my life's great pleasures. It's fun to be taken by surprise by a scent and experience a memory unbidden. But it's also wonderful to know that I can make the memory happen by using a particular perfume or lotion. And it's startling when that doesn't. When I've had a cold and head congestion and I can't smell, I experience a momentary panic. It's like someone suddenly turned the lights out.

As I examine my Sniffsonium, these are the scents that come to mind:

Estee Lauder Youth Dew: This powdery, exotic scent is the smell of dressing up to go out. It was the signature scent of my grandmother and all six of her sisters. They each had the little faceted bottle filled with the brown-as-bourbon elixir on their dressers. With a whiff of Youth Dew, I'm instantly sitting between my grandmother, Bootsie, and Aunt Myrt in the backseat of Aunt Dot's Cadillac going out to a fancy lunch in New Orleans.

Jergen's Original Scent Cherry-Almond Hand Lotion: This is a comforting smell for me. The sweet, slightly candy scent of this brings back similar memories as above. All my aunties used it and a bottle of it was always sitting on the bathroom counter. I can rub a little on my hands today and feel my aunties near me.

Old Spice: The scent of my gravel-voiced but sweet-mannered Uncle Irvin.

4711 Cologne: The dry citrusy scent used by my grandfather. The one and only scent he ever wore.

Hawaiian Tropic Suntan oil: The smell of summer (and sun damage!)

Guerlain's Shalimar: I was eighteen when I smelled Shalimar for the first time and it was a revelation. I learned that scent can open a new sexy and exotic world.

New Orleans French Quarter: There is a damp, old wood, crumbling brick, spilt beer, bourbon splashed root-like musty smell that doesn't exist any other place.

Petrichor: It was such a pleasure when I  learned there was actually a name for the smell of the air right after it begins to rain. I remember playing outside in the hot Louisiana summer afternoons and suddenly it would begin to rain. The dusty asphalt street was so hot, steam would rise sending up a sweet and earthy smell.

And there are so many more...

So, I would love to know, what's in your Sniffsonium?

It's a Coat and an Art Piece!

Sporting my new coat. 

I'm attracted to apparel with a unique, original, artful edge to it. And if it comes with some history or story, then I'm completely charmed and entranced. Like my Hermès Pony Express scarf designed by postal worker Kermit Oliver. (Just realized I haven't written about that yet. I'll do that!) And if that clothing item is signed by the artist, hanging on the rack, fits and is ready for me to take home, then I'm sunk. I might as well just hand over my credit card and stop all the silly "should I or shouldn't I."

Which is what happened when fashion friend forever (BFFF) Karen alerted me to an article she saw in the Style section of the San Francisco Chronicle back in January. Artist, Ann Hamilton, designed and made available for sale a denim coat that was part of a larger bi-coastal art project.

Hamilton created an installation, "The Event of a Thread" at the Park Avenue Armory in New York, from December 5, 2012 to January 6, 2013. In the cavernous hangar-like space, Hamilton hung at one end floor-to-ceiling white billowing curtains and at the other placed tables where actors in denim coats (!) read, wrote and sang, while in the center of the space, 42 swings with seats large enough for two people hung from the ceiling. I didn't see the installation, but I can imagine that it was a wonderful, sensation to glide through the air and be a participant and an observer at the same time.

Ann Hamilton's installation at the Park Avenue Armory. Photo by C.T. Jeanson

Before this, Hamilton did a residency at The Workshop Residence in San Francisco during the fall of 2012. Located in Dogpatch, created by longtime San Francisco art activator and philanthropist Ann Hatch, to give artists and designers a place to create usable and affordable items and a shop in which to sell them. During her residency, Hamilton designed and had manufactured in Oakland, this slightly military uniform-like coat, reminiscent of a gentleman's redingote from the 1800's.

Front of the coat.

Back of the coat.

1819 Costumes Parisiens,
man in redingote

The initial batch of 200 coats sold out, but Karen put our names on the list for the next run and as soon as they were ready we went down to The Workshop Residence just to "look." Long story short, they didn't even have to put it in a bag for me. I wore it out of the shop, instantly enjoying the feel and drama of the back flare when I walked. And I'm so happy to know about this place now. It's a very exciting well-run creative beehive with many great ideas.

This is the darling Katie McCracken who runs the gallery shop and helped me with my coat purchase.

The shop with cool well-priced creations by artists with past residencies, like Jennifer Morla, Aurore Thibout and Dirk Van Saene.

A signed art piece that I can wear? And it's practical too? Yes!

Gala Opening: Museum of Craft and Design

The new location for the Museum of Craft and Design just opened in Dogpatch, on Third Street between 22nd and 23rd Streets in San Francisco.

Any invite that starts with "gala celebration" is the invite for me. Champagne corks popped and a DJ spun while platters of tasty hors d'oeuvres were served at the opening of the new Museum of Craft and Design last Friday night. The crowd of craft and design devotees mixed, mingled, oooh'd and ahhh'd at the art.

Founded in 2003, The Museum of Craft and Design was previously located on Sutter Street near Union Square. It's terrible to say, but as much as I am a fan of craft and the support they give to the design community, I didn't make it to that location very often. This new location is fabulous and has great karma. Now called The American Industrial Center, it was previously known as The American Can Company and many an up-and-coming artist, designer and photographer back in the day had a studio there. (Including hubby Matt.)

And the neighborhood, Dogpatch, was a bit of a no-man's land until a few years ago. Now restaurants, galleries, wine bars and super creative clothing stores (MAC is a constant source of inspiration) have established themselves there.

Now, back to the celebration. First the art...

Three artists opened on the gala night. One exhibit was Arline Fisch: Creatures From the Deep. Arline Fisch (perfect name!), known for her textile and jewelry designs, knitted and crocheted with copper wire to create this delicate sea life. It was so tempting to reach in and try one on my wrist, but I could only oogle through the acrylic case.

Using the same copper wire, Fisch wove these sparkling jellyfish.

The second exhibit was Rebecca Huchinson: Affinity, an on-site installation. A beautifully quiet and contemplative piece.

Not quiet at all, the main exhibit was Michael Cooper: A Sculptural Odyssey, 1968-2011. Cooper creates perfectly and intricately crafted works of wood and metal. His imagery is everything from pistol-toting tricycles to fantasy motorized vehicles to elaborate kinetic political statements.

Then the well-dressed gala attendees...

Fierce-looking Anna Appleby wearing fab Jean Paul Gaultier boots and skirt. 

MCD staffer, Sarah Wininger. Love the lace dress, boots and dark purple tights. 

Eyeing Michael Cooper's very Finish Fetish tricycle, this lovely woman wears that flowered pillbox hat so well. It's perfect with the pink check and floral print. And the bright blue skirt gives the outfit edge and punch. 

I had to include her beautiful smile. 

And this dapper gentleman, Stevens Jay Carter,
wearing a scarf of his own design. 

And the shopping...

This is a well-curated shop! I'll be making another visit soon.

An Act of Daring: Wear Your Self Out

The inimitable Iris Apfel is an inspiration as someone who has made a lifelong practice of artfully daring to wear what has meaning and attraction for her and not worrying what others might think. 

Photo by Eric Boman from the fabulous book Rare Bird of Fashion: The Irreverent Iris Apfel. 

(More to come on It-Girl Iris in a future post.)

Is there some item of clothing, accessory, color or outfit that you feel intimidated to wear, but you're still drawn to it? You want to wear it, buy you're worried about what people will think. You second-guess yourself because it would draw extra attention to you. And there's a voice in your head that stops you from wearing it because of what family, friends or colleagues might say. Or you're worried about what even strangers on the street would think.

That's the voice of the style saboteur, the voice that tells you to blend in, don't stand out, stay safe!

The voice that says:
Who do you think you are, dressing yourself up like that? The Queen of Sheba?
You better look serious if you want people to take you seriously!
You're too old to wear that.
Are you crazy?

I'm reading Daring Greatly by Brené Brown right now and she equates daring with allowing yourself to be vulnerable. She says "Vulnerability is not weakness, and the uncertainty, risk and emotional exposure we face every day are not optional. Our only choice is a question of engagement. Our willingness to own and engage with our vulnerability determines the depth of our courage and the clarity of our purpose; the level to which we protect ourselves from being vulnerable is a measure of our fear and disconnection."

These are heavy and heady thoughts. I know Brené is talking about engaging on a deep emotional level and not just about what one wears. But why not start there? It's a reminder to yourself and others that you are stepping out a bit, taking a little chance. And you know, one good dare leads to the next...

But how did we get to this place where we resigned ourselves to dress so we fit in with the crowd? Where we have forgotten how good it feels to wear something that reflects our personal pizazz. I was talking to a friend about this and she said "I remember in eighth grade my favorite school outfit was a pair of purple bell bottom corduroy pants and a bright yellow top that had a white zipper down the front. I don't know what happened to that daring person. Now all I wear is black." I can so relate. So when did we stop wearing something that shows the world who we are and makes us feel good wearing it? And why?

Brené writes about how we like to see vulnerability in other people, but we don't want to show it ourselves. I love to see people on the street who look like they put thought and style into their outfit. Even if I think it's a little off, or I wouldn't wear it myself, it gives me pleasure to see someone express their personality and style. Hubby Matt and I went to the San Francisco Ballet the other week (a stunning and chilling interpretation of "The Rite of Spring") and there was a woman wearing a hat that looked like a large black and gray felt crushed bag. It's not my style, but she carried it off with great panache and a big smile and that made me smile. I appreciate that she dared to stand out from the crowd.

All the "It" girls and guys dare to be themselves and we are attracted and inspired by that and respond to it and respect them for it. People like Grace Coddington, Iris Apfel, Paul Smith and Thom Brown to name just a few. I bet you know someone that makes you smile when you think about their unique style and how by the way they express their one-of-a-kind self they enrich your life.

Here's a BV challenge: Wear something daring this week! I'd love to hear what it was and how it felt. And I'll do the same.

Feather Brain

Tina Fey is featured in Time Style & Design, Spring 2013. She's looking glamorously gorgeous wearing an Adrienne Landau black ostrich-feather crop jacket. Photo by Paola Kudacki. 

You know how it is when you have something on your radar and you suddenly notice it everywhere? Well, I've had feathers on my brain for several weeks and now it seems feathers are flying down the runway and out of the magazines. These feathery creations look so elegant and thrilling to wear, I would like to share a few beautiful examples with you.

And today marks the second year anniversary of Bien Vestido. Thank you for being a reader!

Donna Karan New York

Dries van Noten runway photos by Yannis Vlamos

From the Dries Van Noten Fall 2013 ready-to-wear show, he showed so many enchanting variations on wearing feathers. Here are a few of my favorites, but you can see them all here.

The Dries Van Noten Fall 2013 ready-to-wear show. What a confectionary dream!

The Dries Van Noten Fall 2013 ready-to-wear show. Black? Satin? Texture? Dress over pants? Feathers? Love it all.

Gucci runway photos by Filippo Flor.

Frida Giannini, the designer for Gucci, did elaborately exotic feather creations for the Gucci Fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection. Here's just a detail of one dress. You can see more here.

Valentine's Day Hearts and Scents

I know Valentine's Day was two weeks ago, but I wanted to show you this beautiful heart pendant that hubby Matt designed and made for me out of stainless and bronze. I love the light whimsical look and when I wore it to work the next day, I received many compliments, amazement from people who don't know Matt's work and recognition from people who do. "You are so lucky to be married to an artist who makes things for you!" they all exclaim. And yes, I am.

It was also lucky for me that Matt used the last drop of his favorite scent the week before Valentine's. It gave me the perfect idea for a gift and a great excuse to shop at one of my favorite San Francisco boutiques, Jacqueline Perfumery. Jacqueline's is classic, elegant and old-school, just like the proprietor, Monsieur Andre. The shop doesn't have a website, but here is the Yelp link. If you scan the reviews, you'll see they go from five stars to zero stars. I agree with the five stars. The zero stars are the people who don't understand that as a customer you have to play by the rules of sometimes gruff Andre. When you enter the shop, you are entering his world and it's important to be extra polite and patient and follow his lead until he warms up to you. As soon as he does, he is generous with his knowledge and very helpful.

The shop has been downtown on Geary near the corner of Grant for as long as I can remember and I've lived in San Francisco since 1981. About six years ago, I was shopping for a new scent for Matt and I consulted with Andre. He asked what scents Matt liked, I answered Fendi Uomo (what he wore on our first date, but is now discontinued). Monsieur pulled Azzaro pour Homme off the shelf and gave me a spritz. I instantly loved it and knew Matt would too. Andre explained they were both a fougere. When I asked what that meant he said "fern". Which I didn't quite understand, so I've been doing some research.

Lately I been referring to this book, Perfumes: the A-Z Guide,  and having a great time with it. I'll write more about it in another post. More than 1800 perfumes are reviewed by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. Their writing is poetic, personal, practical and very witty and fun to read. Turin gives Azzaro pour Homme five out of five stars. Introduced in 1978, he describes ApH as "affable, slightly vulgar, completely unpretentious and overall just delicious." And he lists it as one of the top ten best masculine fragrances. And when I smell it on Matt, I have to agree.

Fine Feathered Trend

I just saw the above photos and caption in The New York Times and I thought "Of course feathers are a trend. Of course they are on the London runway!" A couple months ago, my Aunt Mary Ellen in New Orleans was telling me about her lifelong love of wearing feathers. And as always, when it comes to style, Mary Ellen is so right. She told me about the parties she attended, making a sensation wearing glamorous and elegant feather boas with the "couture" dresses her mother made. More about that here.

She said she would send me what feathers survived Katrina and the Louisiana humidity. A week later I received a shoebox-size package in the mail from her. The box was so light I thought it might be empty. After carefully slicing through the tape and lifting the lid, I found this beautiful, delicate light lavender ostrich feather boa.

I'm wearing the boa right now as I write this. It's delicate yet impactful; it's elegant yet jazzy; it's enticing with lots of fluttery movement in the slightest breeze and it's rather cozy around my neck. I love it! I recommend getting at least one and wearing it to your next party. The trick is to find a rich full boa and not a cheap skimpy one. I just did a quick search for "vintage feather boa" and quite a few very nice ones popped up. Or, if you would like to add feather trim to something, Mary Ellen's favorite place for notions is M&J Trimming in New York. And I just saw that Mood Fabrics, where Project Runway contestants shop, has a good selection of feathers.

Ready for an evening out, Aunt Mary Ellen poses with one of her fabulous boas.

A page torn from Town & Country that Mary Ellen sent with the lavender boa.
Yes! Love those feathers.