Stivali da pioggia a Venezia*

*Rain boots in Venice. I've never seen so many people wearing rain boots and hip boots 

with as much elegance and style as the Venetians. 

We were just in Venice to catch the last week of the Biennale 2013. It was a huge, rich sensory experience of art, beauty, delicious food, warm people and truly fabulous shopping. We did our best to soak it up. We also soaked up some of the Adriatic Sea. On the first morning, as we were leaving our hotel, the desk clerk informed us that high tide would be at 11 am that day and that we would need rain boots. He asked what our shoe sizes were and handed us our boots, each pair folded into a flat plastic pouch. We took the boots with us but we were a little skeptical that we would really need them.

Our first stop was Pasticceria E. Rosa Salva for cappucino and morning treats. We were there for about an hour and as we tried to leave, we stepped out onto what just a little earlier a dry walkway. Now the cobblestone were under several inches of water and rising. Back we went into the pasticceria for another espresso and to put on the boots from our hotel.

As we sat there, struggling to lace, tie and strap our "boots" on, the locals came in and were all wearing hip boots. They looked so dashing, I had to take photos.

My friends Christof and Judith are modeling the two types of boots worn by tourists. The blue ones are sold by street vendors. The clear plastic version is what the hotel gave us. They both did the job, but certainly not as stylishly as what the Venetians wore.

Judith and I noticed a shoe store just a few doors down from the pasticerria. The charming owner, Dittura Gianni, fitted us for real rain boots. Judith opted for the classic dark green waders.

And I traded my clear plastic freebie boots for these actually-made-in-Italy shiny black rubber ones. Only 45 euros and I felt much more stylish and that I could splash through the Venetian streets with confidence.

And just so you can see just why boots are needed, 

here's Christof and hubby Matt at high noon at high tide. 

Even newlyweds wear them.

High tide bride and groom. 

And I learned that a small glass or two of Vecchia Romagna also helps at high tide. 

Beauty heaven...at Walgreen's

One day during lunch hour last week, I was making a made dash down Powell Street after hunting and gathering some fall basics on Union Square and my attention was caught by the "W" sign. I instantly recognized it as Walgreen's but the minimal quality of it signaled that this was something new. I looked in the door and saw a floor of rather fancy looking food counters, so I stepped in to explore. Then I remembered reading that Walgreen's was placing some upmarket stores in various cities with beauty departments carrying European products. The escalator before me beckoned, so I rode up and on the second floor I found a beauty heaven.

The first counter I saw was Boots No. 7, the UK line of cosmetics. I found a wide choice of colors, products and even Poppy King lipsticks. Most things priced around $6-$10. And that day it was buy one get the second for half-price, so I scooped up a few items.

I realize I'm a little late to the game. This "Look Boutique" beauty department opened in May. Walgreen's acquired the NYC Duane Reade chain and decided to try their style of sellling cosmetics.  The space is so open and airy, it was a pleasure to roam around trying this and that. One of my favorite things to do traveling in Europe is to go to a pharmacy to discover elegant and affordale beauty products. Shopping here was a similar experience.

After an hour of deciphering some french labels, testing colors and sniffing beauty potions, I glanced at my watch and realized I was going to be late for my next meeting if I didn't hoof it back South of Market tout suite. I plan to return soon, there are still more rows of products to explore!

Satiating the senses at Bergdorf's

Night before last on PBS, they showed Secrets of Selfridges, an hour-long history of the department store and the man who created it. This was right after Masterpiece Classic: The Paradise, taken from Emile Zola's The Ladies Paradise. Zola's book is the best of all and I highly recommend it. It seems like the historical significance of department stores is suddenly a popular topic.

It's fascinating to learn all the retail and marketing innovations that Harry Gordon Selfridge dreamed up and are still in practice to today. Such as it's fine to "just look", customer service comes first, placing cosmetics by the front door, having a toilet (before Selfridges, women who had to go while shopping, had to go home!) and having annual sales.

Watching both shows last night put me in mind of my first visit to Bergdorf Goodman, which was just a couple months ago. I've always heard and read about its elegance, its service and the highly curated selection of designer clothes. And I enjoyed the documentary, Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf's. And my Aunt Mary Ellen says that when she goes to New York, she always goes to the "three B's: Bergdorf's, Barneys and Bendels. My visit to the store exceeded all expectations. It was at the end of a long work day when a friend and I entered the beautiful doors to the richly decorated ground floor full of cases of beautiful jewelry. Trying to take it all in, I found myself in front of a display of two Verdura cuff bracelets, with Maltese crosses similar to the ones Duke Fulco Verdura designed for Chanel in the Thirties.

I was entranced, having seen photos and read the history, but never having seen one in person. I heard a voice behind me, "Care to test drive these today?" I was startled out of my sparkly reverie and laughed and before I knew it, the darling Joseph Riccio, Verdura Specialist (as he introduced himself) placed one of the cuffs on my wrist. I caught a glimpse of the price tag--$38,000! And then I tried on the other one, $50,000! I told Joseph it was a dream for me to try these on. He looked at me seriously and said, "That's what we do a Bergdorf's, we make dreams come true." And standing there in my jeans and T shirt wearing a bejewelled bracelet, I believed him.

But I had barely entered the store! I went from department to department, circling every floor finding the latest of the latest and the most gorgeous of the gorgeous. And everywhere the Bergdorf people could not have been nicer.

They were having a small show of original drawings by the terrific fashion illustrator Tony Viramontes. In the 80's, Tony's fierce, graphic style defined the times. Unfortunately he died much too young.

The store was celebrating the publication of a new book of his work, Bold, Beautiful and Damned. Which of course I happily purchased, and the salesman graciously shipped it to me so I wouldn't have to carry it. All the famous Bergdorf windows were decorated with Tony's art.

Joseph, my Verdura Specialist, recommended that we go to the 7th floor to have a drink at the BG Restaurant and bar. We found the perfect table for two poised right in front of a window with a view of Central Park. My friend and I ordered the Warm Crab Dip to share and a glass of bubbly. The waiter also brought us a dish of BG Bar Nuts. It was all so delicious and rich that I asked the waiter for the recipes. He took my email address and said they would get back to me. The next day I had an email from Julieta Benavides, the restaurant manager. She was delighted that I enjoyed my visit to Bergdorfs and attached the recipes. She even said I should look her up next time I'm there!

Here are the recipes:

BG Warm Crab Dip

• Make a béchamel: Melt 8 oz. butter, Add 16 oz. all-purpose flour, Whisk in 4 cups milk until thick and creamy. (note: doesn't that seem like too much flour?)
• Add jumbo lump crabmeat and salt and pepper to taste.
• Top with panko breadcrumbs and bake in oven.
• Garnish with chives and serve with toast points. 

BG Bar Nuts

• Mixed nuts (no peanuts), 3 large cans
• Rosemary, chopped, 1 bunch
• Butter, 1/2 lb. 
• Cayenne pepper, 1 tsp. 
• Kosher salt, 1 cup
• Spanish paprika, 1/2 cup
• Sugar, 1/2 cup

Place nuts on a sheet tray and bake in oven for 5 minutes at 350. Transfer nuts to large bowl and combine with rest of ingredients until fully incorporated. Spread on cool sheet tray and let set. 

At Bergdorf Goodman, from the first floor to the seventh floor, all the senses are satiated!

This is so two weeks ago

More style icon sightings! The glamorous Giovanna Battaglia and Stefano Tonchi, editor-in-chief of W magazine. I love Giovanna's outfit. It's so simple and elegant and the oversized buckle makes it high style.


The fashion folk are in Paris this week, but my thoughts are still in New York. What follows are more photos from my exciting NY fashion week adventure as an outsider (on the sidewalk!) at the Band of Outsiders show in Chelsea about two weeks ago. Since then, the style cognoscenti have ogled the runways in London, Milan and now Paris. But style inspiration can be found anywhere at anytime and I hope you find some here, even if this is ancient history.

I love this idea of knotting the hem of drapey wide trousers. 

Beautiful lace and necklace. And the white and coral is so dramatic with her black hair. 

I saw a lot of these leather shorts. 

Lots of block colors and geometric shapes too. 

It's amazing how a motorcycle jacket, striped T and ripped jeans still look great. 

Nice update with the clutch. 

Beautiful. 

An indy-prep look. It's a shirtdress and loafers, 

but the shapes and proportions are pushed and more dramatic. 

I saw lots of crisp white shirts and with those legs, she sure wears it well!

Very luxe-collegiate!

Style-Star Struck

Grace Coddington, Creative Director of Vogue. She doesn't take photographs, she sketches. I would love to take a peek inside the sketchbook she's holding. 

I was just in NYC for work; a seven-day photoshoot which had absolutely nothing to do with the world of fashion. It was long days of recreating office scenes and groups gathered to discuss their investing in corporate and home surroundings. And at the same time in NY it was Fashion Week! I knew there were runway shows and events happening all over, but I didn't have enough strings to pull to get tickets to any shows. What's a style blogger to do? I did some praying to the fashion goddess ("Isis, Isis, fashion crisis!") and she answered, in a bigger way than I ever imagined.

Last Sunday, we were shooting a corporate event scene at an art gallery in Chelsea. Across the street I noticed a bit of a hubbub. I learned it was the show for Band of Outsiders. No, there were no extra tickets, but I was told I could hang outside and watch the comings and goings. Sure! I'll make the most of what I can get. I situated myself in a good spot with the other photographers and started shooting some very pretty people in great clothes (more on that in my next post). When a white Town Car pulled up and I saw the top of a very red-haired head. I gasped, that could only be one person - Grace Coddington! Sure enough, it was. I was arm's length from one of my major style icons. I began snapping away and getting teary and laughing at the same time. I think I got a bit hysterical. I even called out "I love you Grace!" like a kid at a boy band concert. (What I meant was "I respect and admire you!"). But I managed to keep it together and take these photos.

Grace with that determined expression we're all familiar with after The September Issue. 

Raydene Salinas, wearing a great fashion photographers outfit: stylish, comfortable 

and ready for quick moves. 

While we photographers were waiting for guests to arrive, I befriended the darling and empathetic Raydene Salinas, Huffington Post photographer and photo editor. It was a relief to share my star struck excitement with her. She laughed with me and said she wished everyone was as enthusiastic about style.

Garance Doré and her great smile. 

No sooner than I could catch my breath from seeing Grace, up pulls another car with Garance Doré and Scott Schuman. I regularly follow both of their blogs. Garance writes in such a friendly open tone that reading her blog feels like a chat with a girlfriend. She's wearing the Valentino Rockstud shoes I've lusted after for some time. I wanted to make a connection with her, so I introduced myself and we shook hands and I stammered out "I really like your blog." She smiled and said thank you. (Note to self: practice more intelligent comments when meeting my style icons!)

Scott Schuman of The Satorialist and Garance Doré of the eponymously named blog. 

Simon Doonan, creative ambassador of Barneys New York. He's easy to spot in his signature 

flower-print shirts and majorly monogramed Goyard bag. 

I adore Simon Doonan and I actually felt comfortable enough to strike up a conversation with him. He's written six books that I've read. They are all personal and very funny so I feel I know him. He has a new one coming out this month, The Asylum, "a collage of couture reminiscences and hysteria." Sounds like a must-read.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president of Bergdorf Goodman's fashion office and store presentation. 

Do an image search of Linda Fargo and you will see someone who is always dressed elegantly and up-to-the-minute. Of course, she has Bergdorf's as her closet, but she certainly wears it well.

Even though I was on the fringes, it was a thrill to be in NY for fashion week. Who knows, maybe next year I'll be on the guest list.